Cape to Cape track – Cape Leeuwin, WA

I’ll start by admitting this is not an article about completing the whole track, but merely a couple of day jaunts while on our annual easter trip to Augusta. As the weather was not really conducive to our usual swimming adventures, I managed to convince a few of my fellow campers to join me on two Cape-to-Cape adventures.

Day one; with an ominous looking sky, we parked at the old water wheel near Cape Leeuwin lighthouse and set out in a northerly direction. Although only a short walk of a few kilometres, we were impressed at what we saw and the contrasting landscape within such a short stretch. It was truly beautiful but, it was reasonably hard work. I had not previously appreciated there are many parts of the track that involve walking (or trudging) across the beach on soft sand (as seen below).

Soft sand equals hard work

Nor had I appreciated that some parts of the track actually come very close to the water! A small section around the northern end of Quarry Bay involved some scrabbling across moss covered slippery rocks and through areas that quite obviously used to be enclosed caves with limestone divots, stalactites and tiny waterfalls.

Smallest water fall ever

By just making it around the corner of the bay, these treacherous (for walkers like me – I am no rock climber) areas then gave way to a spectacular coastline and views for miles. Just before reaching our destination of Skippy’s rock, we were able to look back at Cape Leeuwin lighthouse and marvel at the beauty of the region. By this time the sun was peeking out from the clouds and the day was glorious.

Cape Leeuwin lighthouse

Day two; a sunny autumn day and down to two walkers, we set out from Skippy’s rock and again headed north. This was a kilometre straight up hill through bush. Huffing and puffing and with quite a sweat up, we reached a fork in the path and decided to take the direction heading towards the coast. We were hoping for a view but instead we walked about 7 meters around the corner and found a bench seat.

The seat seemed to be facing in the direction of the ocean but had no view at all due to thick bush in front of it. Although obviously a great spot for tired walkers to rest and lunch, we were desperate to see where we were and what lay below. I climbed up onto the bench and gazed over the bush. I am very glad I did because this is what I saw…..

Now, as I said at the start, we were only interested in a couple of leisurely jaunts to enjoy the scenery and were on no mission to achieve a certain number of kilometres. From the vantage point of the bench, I was able to see; not only did the track carry on into thick bush but with internet reception, I was able to ascertain it turned slightly inland and would provide no stunning views for a number of kilometres. Feeling sweaty and satisfied with our views, we decided to head back to the rest of the family who were down at Skippy’s rock (a whole other story!).

Having previously walked several small sections of the track from the Cape Naturaliste end, I have mentioned to my husband many a time, that I would one day like to attempt the whole track. However, during our walk on Day one, we came across some very tricky parts of the track as well as some brave, fit looking, backpackers in their 20s who were only an hour or so away from completing the whole thing. As they staggered from the bush track out onto the road looking absolutely shattered, I realised what a gruelling mission it really is.

For those that are unaware, the Cape-to-Cape track is 123km stretching from Cape Naturaliste light house near Yallingup to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse just outside of Augusta. It is graded a level 4 bushwalk and it is recommended to be done over 5-8 days and for those with bush walking experience. After briefly quizzing the walkers we met about their experience, it turns out the hardest part is the number of times you need to walk across beach and soft sand. This is evidently brutal.

I found it hard as a semi fit middle aged woman in my hiking boots, walking for 1.5 hours carrying only a drink bottle. I think a semi fit middle aged woman carrying a pack with food and clothes for 5-8 days is a whole different scenario. Difficult would not be the word. I am thinking more like………… insane.

I have since reviewed my aspirations to walk the whole track and decided, for me, leisurely day walks are the best and safest way to go!


Gatti de Roma – Cats of Rome – Italy

I love when you are traveling and you discover something completely unexpected. That is exactly what happened on our last day in Rome.

We had spent the morning in the Vatican City posing for photos in St Peter’s Square. The kids were a bit ‘over’ looking at sights so we had a quick cuppa and Mr Travel Bee suggested his own special walking tour.

We wound through cobbled streets, ducked into a beautiful old church (did you know there are something like 940 churches in Rome?!), came across some markets and then ended up at a set of ruins (as you do in Rome).

Mr Travel Bee proceeded to tell us this was Torre Argentina where Julius Caesar died on the Ides of March in 44 BC. The kids immediately zoned out, with that glazed expression that said…… “please Dad, we can’t take in any more history”. Then he said “Oh and there is a cat sanctuary here!”

The ears pricked up.

At first we couldn’t see any cats and thought he must have been mistaken. But, when as walked along the sidewalk overlooking the ruins we began to see them. Some were camouflaged by their surrounding and others were out sunning themselves on the bright winters afternoon.

There are at least four cats in this photo but you might need to zoom in!

As we walked further, more and more came out of the woodwork (or stonework!). Then, as we reached the corner there was a staircase and a sign pointing down to ‘Gatti de Roma’. We all looked each other, shrugged and began climbing down.

At the bottom of the stairs we were greeted by several people, several cats and then ushered in a small door. Once inside we couldn’t believe our eyes. There were dozens and dozens of cats housed in a small crevice beneath the street.

As it turns out, this place is quite something. Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary is an organisation that rescues cats off the street and gives them a second chance at life. It is home to 84 cats in total, many of which have serious health issues including blindness, deafness, amputated limbs, respiratory issues and even behavioural issues. But these cats are so loved and so happy (except one).

Visitors crowded the small rooms patting, cuddling and murmuring to kitties. There was one cat that had taken a particular liking to a woman who, no matter how she tried, could not remove herself. It was quite funny to watch. I wonder if she ended up adopting him!

Each cat is named when it enters the shelter and examined by a vet. Some become permanent residents, others are nursed back to full health before being adopted. One thing is for sure, there is a cat for everyone here with old cats, young cats, fluffy cats, black cats, tabby cats, cuddly cats, aloof cats and everything in between.

King of his castle

There is however, one to be avoided. Aceto (a ginger Tom cat) doesn’t like anyone or anything (he is the one I refer to with behavioural issues). Hopefully after some time in a loving environment, his will to dislike everything will be broken down and he will rediscover friends and the beautiful kindness in this world.

For cat lovers this was a unique and memorable find. If you would like to donate to the charity or read about some of the characters in the sanctuary you can follow Gatti de Roma on Facebook or visit their website

Who knows, you may even be able to adopt a cat, from a distance.


Our Squeak says hello to the Cats of Rome

The glorious foods of Roma – Italy

By the time we made it to Italy, I was feeling a little weary and completely incapable of blogging. We had been travelling for five weeks and whilst Rome is an amazing place to sightsee and to explore rich history, we had to take it easy.

Each day, we chose one sight to see and the rest of the day was all about enjoying Rome’s culinary delights. We spent hours wandering cobbled streets discovering delightful cafes, pizzerias and gelato shops.

Spoilt for choice, there was zero disappointment…..

Fungi Pizza – So simple but incredibly delicious with a thin crunchy base. Each bite was a sensation.
Tomato gnocchi (and four cheese gnocchi in the background) – presented in the pan it is cooked in, this gnocchi melted in your mouth. Little fluffy clouds in rich creamy sauces – yum!
Pesto Pasta – little worms of pure bliss, I loved every mouthful. Rich basil and olive oil flavour perfectly paired with roasted cherry tomatoes. Light in size but perfectly satisfying.
Cannelloni – a forgotten pasta but certainly back on my radar. Strong meaty flavours balanced with tomato and Parmesan cheese.
Tiramisu – a traditional Italian favourite. Ladyfingers dipped in coffee then covered in whipped mascarpone and cream. Perfecto.
Gelato – who doesn’t love gelato? A sweet and naughty treat. Perfect…even in the middle of winter!
Best coffee of the trip – Rome airport!


Best of Copenhagen – Denmark

Our four day ‘city break’ destination of Copenhagen turned out to be a brilliant pick. With the Travel Bee’s joined by Aunty and Uncle Travel Bee, it was difficult to find somewhere none of us had been (yes Aunty and Uncle do like to travel as much as us!). The kids were a little dubious but they needn’t have been, there was plenty to do for all ages.

Between day trips to Sweden, pastry cooking class and Bastard Cafe we used the metro and ferry to explore this intriguing city. We were all very impressed with how easy the Metro was to negotiate. The trains were cheap, frequent, not overly full and clean. The only snag was working out which exit to leave the stations from! This did lead to a fair bit of disorientation as we got to street level which turned out to be both a disadvantage and an advantage as we discovered places we were never intending to see!

One such place was Torvehallerne food market, a bustling, high end, gourmet type experience with both prepared food stalls as well as butchers, fish mongers, fruit and vegetables etc. It was here we discovered the Danish open sandwich and where we all agreed that these sandwiches were the best we had ever experienced! The photos tell the story…..

Apart from eating sandwiches, we also enjoyed taking in the varied architecture around the city with the pretty canal of Nyhavn and the view from The Round Tower amongst my favourites. Also impressive was Christiansborg Palace and the spiral spire of The Church of Our Savior.

The Round Tower

Not overly impressive but a must see for any fan of Hans Christian Andersen is the Little Mermaid statue. I found the background just as interesting as the statue itself. The unusual sloped building seen in the photo below, CopenHill is a waste to energy plant that doubles as a sports centre including a ski field on top and climbing walls along its sides! The Danish are the masters of dual purposing and getting the most out of any construction.

Little Mermaid

There was only one place in this beautiful city that left us unimpressed, Christiania. Touted as the Amsterdam of Copenhagen, this is the ‘free town’ area an independent hippy type community. Here people live according to certain ideals including no violence, no stealing, no cars, no running, no photos and with a strong emphasis on sustainability and recycling. Marijuana although still illegal in Denmark, is a big part of the lifestyle in this area.

I had read much about Christiania, it’s vibrant cafe scene, it’s arty hangouts and it’s yoga and meditation vibes. We saw none of that. Perhaps it was the time of year, but the whole area seemed grey, run down and dirty. The only thing that matched the guide books was the distinctive smells of marijuana.


Bastard Cafe – Copenhagen Denmark

By far and away one of our favourite finds in Copenhagen was a spot we had long since researched, Bastard Cafe. Tucked away on an unsuspecting street, it is the kind of location you are unlikely to come across unless you are ‘in the know’. Fortunately the Lonely Planet guide had explained exactly what this place was and how to find it.

Although at our first attempt we were successful at locating it, we were unsuccessful in getting a table! We had totally underestimated it’s popularity on a wintery Sunday afternoon. Every table and nook was full of groups of friends, couples and families drinking and chatting excitedly and no one was leaving. It is hard to explain, but it just felt cool. We booked a table for the next afternoon.

Essentially, this place is a cafe dedicated to playing board games and hosts the biggest collection of games you have ever seen. They cover the walls, are shelved in the roof beams and stacked on tables. There are card games, board games, English games, Danish games, American games and so much more. There is even a whole section dedicated to Monopolies from all over the world.

There is also food, coffee and a bar. What more could one want on a rainy winter’s day? It is the coolest place to hang out and evidently a true Danish experience. Our booking was for three hours…… we stayed for six (as it would seem, most patrons do)!

Although predominantly inhabited by groups of friends in their 20-30s, our group ranging from 12-62 years had a blast discovering new games. We also enjoyed chatting to the ‘games gurus’ who were very impressive in their knowledge of games and spot on with recommendations for our group.

But, our favourite game was one I happened to walk past as it sat (unbeknown to me) on the repairs table (torn box). Wits and Wagers literally provided hours of all age fun guessing answers and betting on the likelihood ourselves or our fellow players were closest to the correct answer. We are still trying to locate a copy so we can add it to our collection at home.

An afternoon highly recommended, but be warned, it is definitely worth booking. Although you have to pay to reserve a table, you each get a free drink and access to all of the games on site. It is worth the small fee.

At the end of the day, we had full tummies, happy kids and merry adults (a few beers consumed). We were however left with one unanswered question…… Why is it called Bastard cafe?!


Racquets – Val Thorens – France

Those who know me (and those who have read my Mt Buller blogs) know I am not really built for skiing. I have tried in New Zealand, I have tried in Australia and I have tried in Japan. I have tried over a span of 25 years. No-one could say I haven’t given it a good crack. However, when my family affectionately call me ‘Bambi on Ice’ and I have hit ‘middle age’, I have decided it might be time to admit defeat and hang up the skis.

As the rest of the family love skiing and snow boarding, time in the French Alps was always on the agenda for this trip. I could not deny them. I decided on this visit to the mountains, I would have to find something else to do.

After a couple of false starts trying to book a group tour snowshoeing (apparently it isn’t that popular) I was feeling a little despondent. This morning, I decided to ask our reception for some advice. After a hilarious three way conversation of broken English and French, the activities organiser exclaimed ‘Ahhh I give you Racquets!’

My new friends the ‘racquets’

From there, it was a quick trip to tourist information for a map and directions to a track. The lovely lady assured me I could not get lost (my biggest fear) and I was off on my solo adventure.

My goal was to reach a stone cottage on the Montagnettes path. Reaching the actual walking path turned out to be the hardest part. Once I had climbed through town and located the path, I was rewarded with a well marked track skirting along the edge of the mountains looking straight down into the valley of Val Thorens. Although the weather wasn’t too clear for photos, I jotted down some notes:

It’s so quiet. Peace. My head feels so clear.

Only sound is a squeak from my left ski pole as it plunges into the fresh snow.

Far off in the distance I can hear the odd cheer from a skier enjoying their best life.

Here come the dogs…..

And as I had a rest on a beautifully positioned bench, I was joined by a couple of dogs out for a walk with their owners. One, a husky, bounded up to me to say hello….. or bonjour I guess! After a quick head rub he proceeded to run excitedly through the lumps of fresh snow in front of me, literally hurtling himself into mounds. Clearly, he absolutely loves where he lives!

My husky friend

I did make it to the stone cottage without getting lost. I did also fall flat on my butt twice, but that is okay, it was worth it. I think I might have found my mountain ‘thing’! I am a snowshoer (not sure if that is an actual word)! I can’t wait to try another track tomorrow.

The stone cottage