Cape to Cape track – Cape Leeuwin, WA

I’ll start by admitting this is not an article about completing the whole track, but merely a couple of day jaunts while on our annual easter trip to Augusta. As the weather was not really conducive to our usual swimming adventures, I managed to convince a few of my fellow campers to join me on two Cape-to-Cape adventures.

Day one; with an ominous looking sky, we parked at the old water wheel near Cape Leeuwin lighthouse and set out in a northerly direction. Although only a short walk of a few kilometres, we were impressed at what we saw and the contrasting landscape within such a short stretch. It was truly beautiful but, it was reasonably hard work. I had not previously appreciated there are many parts of the track that involve walking (or trudging) across the beach on soft sand (as seen below).

Soft sand equals hard work

Nor had I appreciated that some parts of the track actually come very close to the water! A small section around the northern end of Quarry Bay involved some scrabbling across moss covered slippery rocks and through areas that quite obviously used to be enclosed caves with limestone divots, stalactites and tiny waterfalls.

Smallest water fall ever

By just making it around the corner of the bay, these treacherous (for walkers like me – I am no rock climber) areas then gave way to a spectacular coastline and views for miles. Just before reaching our destination of Skippy’s rock, we were able to look back at Cape Leeuwin lighthouse and marvel at the beauty of the region. By this time the sun was peeking out from the clouds and the day was glorious.

Cape Leeuwin lighthouse

Day two; a sunny autumn day and down to two walkers, we set out from Skippy’s rock and again headed north. This was a kilometre straight up hill through bush. Huffing and puffing and with quite a sweat up, we reached a fork in the path and decided to take the direction heading towards the coast. We were hoping for a view but instead we walked about 7 meters around the corner and found a bench seat.

The seat seemed to be facing in the direction of the ocean but had no view at all due to thick bush in front of it. Although obviously a great spot for tired walkers to rest and lunch, we were desperate to see where we were and what lay below. I climbed up onto the bench and gazed over the bush. I am very glad I did because this is what I saw…..

Now, as I said at the start, we were only interested in a couple of leisurely jaunts to enjoy the scenery and were on no mission to achieve a certain number of kilometres. From the vantage point of the bench, I was able to see; not only did the track carry on into thick bush but with internet reception, I was able to ascertain it turned slightly inland and would provide no stunning views for a number of kilometres. Feeling sweaty and satisfied with our views, we decided to head back to the rest of the family who were down at Skippy’s rock (a whole other story!).

Having previously walked several small sections of the track from the Cape Naturaliste end, I have mentioned to my husband many a time, that I would one day like to attempt the whole track. However, during our walk on Day one, we came across some very tricky parts of the track as well as some brave, fit looking, backpackers in their 20s who were only an hour or so away from completing the whole thing. As they staggered from the bush track out onto the road looking absolutely shattered, I realised what a gruelling mission it really is.

For those that are unaware, the Cape-to-Cape track is 123km stretching from Cape Naturaliste light house near Yallingup to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse just outside of Augusta. It is graded a level 4 bushwalk and it is recommended to be done over 5-8 days and for those with bush walking experience. After briefly quizzing the walkers we met about their experience, it turns out the hardest part is the number of times you need to walk across beach and soft sand. This is evidently brutal.

I found it hard as a semi fit middle aged woman in my hiking boots, walking for 1.5 hours carrying only a drink bottle. I think a semi fit middle aged woman carrying a pack with food and clothes for 5-8 days is a whole different scenario. Difficult would not be the word. I am thinking more like………… insane.

I have since reviewed my aspirations to walk the whole track and decided, for me, leisurely day walks are the best and safest way to go!

TTB

Tips for preparing to travel with teenagers

With our next adventure less than 24 hours away, I thought I would share some tips I have learnt preparing and travelling with our children.

1. Don’t bother getting them to pack!

I know this is a controversial one. Everyone says “they are old enough to do it themselves”, but mine (12 and 15, female and male) just don’t. They leave it and leave it. When the time comes, everything they want is on the floor dirty and the arguments begin.

Some would say I have facilitated this laziness and reliance on Mum and that may be a fair call. But, I think my kids just know……if you want a job done properly, get Mum to do it! And don’t think I haven’t tried. There was that one trip when Master Travel Bee had one pair of undies for a week (you couldn’t even buy any at our destination) and had to resort to wearing his father’s. It wasn’t the end of the world, but it wasn’t the best start to a relaxing break.

Do make sure you start early. Put things in the cases they aren’t going to be using and encourage them to leave it alone. Stay on top of your washing for the 10 days leading up to the trip. Start filtering more into the suitcase, telling the kids to only rotate through a few outfits for the last couple of days.

Call me a control freak, but the advantage of doing it this way, is less worry down the line. When you are heading to the other side of the world with loads of activities planned, it is good to know what is in the bag and that all activities are covered or at least what you may need to pick up along the way.

Top tip: roll your clothes

2. Just deal with it, there will be rewards at the end.

I have run around endlessly for the last two weeks packing suitcases, buying Christmas presents, trying (and failing) to buy warm clothes, sorting the house out ready for house sitters, ordering school books for next year, planning itineraries and booking tickets. I am shattered but calm. It’s done.

Yes, I may have moaned about being the only one that does anything but at least I am in control (I really am a control freak). I know what is done and what needs to be done. You can always ask someone (AKA the husband) to help, just make sure you are clear in what you want them to do. I did this last week and with two of us working on it, we blitzed through some of the more arduous tasks together.

Remember once you are on that plane with everything planned and everything booked, you can relax and enjoy the ride. If things aren’t planned and you don’t have what you need, you will end up in a world of pain with grumpy and bored children.

3. Prepare the kids for things going wrong.

Especially at the moment, travel doesn’t always go according to plan. Planes do get delayed, luggage does go missing and activities can go wrong. Kids (and adults) have to be able to roll with the punches. Make sure everyone has at least spare underwear in their hand luggage (if not a full change of clothes) and activities for delays. Make sure you have chargers for devices you may need on your journey. Accept that at least one thing will be left behind at some point.

If you are heading to the UK like we are, prepare for anything! Below is a schedule of all the upcoming strikes. We are fully aware that at some point, something we have planned is either going to be disrupted or not happen at all. I guess we should scrub the driving test off the itinerary 🤣

Courtesy of the BBC

4. Plan rest days.

I think this goes for adults and children alike, travel can be overwhelming. Everything is new and exciting, it is easy to fall into the trap of thinking you can not waste a single minute, but this is a mistake. Rest is vital, particularly if you have a long haul flight to contend with.

Have a day off and sleep in. The next day you will feel so much better and enjoy whatever you choose to do that much more feeling refreshed. The kids are less likely to drag their feet and you won’t get caught out spending a fortune on coffee.

5. Always pack snacks.

This goes without saying. Same as any other trip out of the house. Make sure you either have snacks in your bag or quick access to them! Hangry travellers is a recipe for disaster. If you have a teenage son, plan the whole day around meals!

6. Just do it!

It is easy to think travelling with kids is too hard. No routine, different foods, too tiring, close quarters, they don’t like what you like, but honestly the benefits are huge.

Children are far more resilient than we give them credit for. In my experience they handle change far better than us adults. Travelling with children is awesome, they force you to look at things from a different perspective and find the fun in everything you do. The wonder and awe you see in their eyes plus memories created is truely something to cherish.

Do not forget the tickets and passports

Wow! Now I am super excited now! Half a sleep tonight (airport at 3:30am) and we are off. I can not wait to share our stories with you all.

TTB

Star gazing at Yallingup Lagoon – WA

The last couple of weeks have been interesting in the lagoon. We have hung up the wetsuits for the season and committed wholeheartedly to bathers only. Just like anytime entering the ocean, it is a bit of a shock to the system but once swimming, the body quickly acclimatises. That is, until you hit a cold patch!

For some reason, the water temperature in the last few weeks has been really patchy. One minute it is just right, then freezing cold and then even more disconcerting…. really warm (I do take a quick look around to make sure no one has had a sneaky wee!!).

Panoramic shot captured on our lagoon adventure last week

Another interesting point, is that the lagoon has been quite devoid of fish. No salmon, no schools of bream or herring. In fact, although the water is crystal clear you really have to look to see any fish at all. I just wonder if they know something we don’t….

There has however been one new friend. A perfectly formed, perfectly symmetrical, bright orange, teeny tiny starfish! I am not sure how I have managed to spot him twice, being that he is so small (smaller than the palm of my hand) but I feel privileged to have caught a glimpse of this perfectly formed creature. So cute.

Anyway, as usual the lagoon has provided a challenging workout with the swell and current interacting in such a way that one minute you are surging forward on a wave, gloriously enjoying the helping hand, only to find two minutes later you are being dragged backwards and you are fighting against the will of Mother Nature. Nevertheless we love every minute.

Something we love almost as much as the swimming, is our post swim treat. Once dry, we make our way up the hill to Yallingup Store. Here you can find the best spinach and feta or sausage rolls ever. Made on site, these delectable, slightly naughty packages of goodness are just what you need after battling the elements.

Our favourite, the spinach and feta roll is jam packed with spinach making you think you are eating something healthy, but wrapped in a cheese encrusted pastry that that crunches and flakes with each bite means it surely is not. Paired with a coffee, chai or freshly squeezed juice, these are to die for.

Spinach and feta roll

According to reliable sources, my photo makes it look like something rather unappetising but in a way, I hope it puts you off! All the more for my friend and I! We are devastated on the days tourists have polished them all off before our arrival. How dare they!

TTB

The eyes of Yallingup Lagoon – WA

This morning as I drove around the hill at the top of Yallingup, I knew I was in for a treat. The water was a milky millpond, with small sets rolling in across the bay and not a breath of wind. I felt myself smile and muttered to myself “wahoo, look at that!” (yes…..sometimes I do talk to myself).

As I approached the bottom of the hill, I realised someone had, as my friend likes to say, ‘pulled the plug out’ in the lagoon. The tide was exceptionally low. The reef was clearly visible, and I could see several surfers and stand-up paddle boarders walking out to the breaks beyond. A low tide for lagoon swimmers means two things; altered swim technique and closer proximity to the bottom dwelling wildlife.

With the car telling us the outside temperature was 14 degrees, my friend and I quickly decided it was still wetsuit weather and I am certainly glad we made that decision. As we waded out into the lagoon, I was again questioning my own sanity. It was freezing. For the first time in ages, as I dived under the water, my lungs seemed to shrink and I had to do some stern talking to myself to prevent the onset of panic as my body fought to adjust to the conditions. ‘The rock’ seemed a long way out on that first lap.

By lap three, we were warming up and settling into a rhythm when my swimming partner abruptly stopped. When she pointed at the bottom it took me a while to see what she was pointing at. But there nestled into the sand and almost completely covered, was an enormous flathead. Only it’s outline and eyes were visible, and those eyes were intently watching us. I suspect he was as interested in the strange, wetsuit clad, bright coloured swim capped ladies peering at him from above, as we were of him. Unfortunately, I had no camera but hopefully the image I found below gives you some idea of what we were looking at (although our sand is much finer and lighter in colour).

After watching Mr flathead for a little while, we carried on to complete lap three. On lap four, we were surprised to see all that was left of Mr flathead was his imprint in the sand. Seemingly bored by us, he had dashed off in search of his next meal or to watch one of the unsuspecting swimmers floating around nearby. By the end of lap four we were sufficiently warm and much to my horror, my friend announced; not only were we going to go for lap five (a feat reserved for only the best lagoon days) but we were going to do it without our wetsuits!! In an act akin to ripping off a band-aid, I decided the only way was quick.

We stripped off and set off on our way. At this stage I quickly realised that although it felt very strange to be swimming in only bathers after a wetsuit, I actually much prefer to swim this way. Unrestricted and free! On our final leg, swimming parallel to the beach, my friend again stopped abruptly. It turns out our other friend had graced us with his presence, Mr Octopus. Unfortunately for me, by the time she had alerted me, he had quickly retracted into his hidey hole. However, I was able to dive down and see his eyes, stalk like, looking out at me.

These wonderful encounters got me wondering…….

Who else was watching us today? Of course, we saw plenty of fish and enjoyed their show as the schools saw us and dashed off in unison. They were watching, but who else? We know there is also Mr Wobbegong living in the lagoon. We didn’t see him, but I am willing to bet he saw us.

Today also made me think, perhaps my next hobby should be underwater photography! Unfortunately, today’s images are not mine and taken from the internet. Thank you to those photographers, whoever you are. Websites below the pictures for credit.

TTB

Lunchtime at the lagoon – Yallingup WA

No, thank goodness neither my friend nor I were anyone’s lunch! But, for our last lagoon adventure we did unusually go for our swim at lunchtime and true to Yallingup Lagoon’s form, we saw something we had never seen there before…

It was a stunning day as we wandered down the path with a big swell running in the background and a low tide in the lagoon. There were no surfers around, but plenty of people watching the wild and untidy sets roll in.

Stunning day at the lagoon

My friend and I squeezed into our wetsuits and picked our way across the moss covered rocks and into the water. It was cold. That trickle of cold water as it enters the zip of your wetsuit and runs down your back makes you wonder every time if you have gone completely mad!!

Picking our way across slippery rocks

We began our swim. The water was quite clear and through the channel we saw plenty of fish including a few big salmon and the usual bream and herring. I also noticed a few little gar fish near the surface and schools of small unidentifiable fish gathering around the rocks. Always something to look at!

A short time later we were joined by another fellow lagoon swimmer. Someone else who appeared to know all our secrets! He too, was swimming the triangular route and as the photo below shows we gave him a wave when he reached ‘the rock’ (a sign of a proper lagoon swimmer).

Man on the rock

But, it was between laps three and four that we watched in awe as a nearby cormorant decided it was his lunchtime. He took a deep dive down into the water and came up with a fish, that to our eyes, looked like he had bitten off more than he could chew. It was rather large!

Mr Cormorant then proceeded to bash the fish around causing quite a splash and commotion, now drawing attention from beach walkers and wave watchers alike. After a few minutes of fierce thrashing, the bird tried to swallow the fish in one gulp. Except, as we suspected, it really was too big. Last we saw, the fish tail was still sticking out of his beak as he made his way out of the lagoon. I am left wondering what happened. Did he choke? Did he manage to get it down? Did it come back up?!

With that, we were also getting peckish and headed around the lagoon for one final lap before heading to the Yallingup General Store for lunch. We were disappointed to discover that our favourite spinach and feta rolls were sold out but a hot coffee and slice of frittata hit the spot.

Another successful and interesting lagoon adventure.

TTB

It’s a secret: Yallingup Lagoon – Western Australia

Yallingup lagoon is my happy place. Each week I make a thirty minute drive to met my friend here for a swim. Whether in a wetsuit, in bathers and once….. in our underwear (sshhh!), it doesn’t matter what the weather is doing, we do it anyway.

Usually we try and do four laps of our triangular route. We head out to what is affectionately known as ‘the rock’, swim diagonally through ‘the channel’ to the corner and then back parallel to the beach. One must always attempt to get at least a foot on ‘the rock’ or it isn’t a proper swim!

On a calm day, we have been known to stretch to five laps. If it is rough, it is three. If it is really rough, we might only get wet after taking a brisk walk along the coast (now the underwear makes sense). Whatever we do, it makes us feel alive. It blows the cobwebs out, it grounds us. It is like our own private reset button.

There is something very special about this place. To be honest, I am not sure whether I should tell too many people for fear of our tranquility being disturbed!! But here goes….

Yallingup lagoon is an area protected from the wild Indian Ocean by reef. Just beyond its boundaries are the well known surf breaks of Yallingup and well…… yes sharks. But, inside the reef, is a sheltered safe haven.

Fish use it as a resting spot, a nursery and a hospital. This means you never know what you might see in there. You also never know what will be happening with the swell and current. Even us regulars are often fooled by the weather forecast. Essentially, it has its own microclimate. It is potluck, you don’t know until you get there what it will be like.

I thought I might write a small series of blogs to describe what we see and what happens at the lagoon. Some call us mad, but I think you will soon see, we are just in love with the lagoon and all the adventure it brings (plus the hot coffee and a chat at the end). The black line in a swimming pool is just so boring now!

TTB

Jetstar – Busselton Margaret River to Melbourne

Anyone would think we haven’t been on a plane for two and a half years! This morning, the Travel Bees were literally the first through security and into the ‘lounge’ at Busselton Margaret River airport.

It was hard to contain our excitement. Not only were we getting on a plane, but for the first time it was from our home town. No drive to Perth, no fluffing around with car parking, no fighting the crowds to check in. This flight is a game changer for anyone who loves Melbourne or loves to travel! 🙋‍♀️

We did however get a tad wet! Busselton Margaret River airport is pretty basic. There is a check in desk, security, a lounge and a cafe (more like a kiosk). That is it. You walk across the tarmac to the plane and when it is raining….. you get wet.

For me, all that just adds to the charm. Simplicity is sometimes very welcome and when you haven’t been interstate or done any international travel for two and a half years, it is the perfect reintroduction to flying.

We are super excited to finally be getting another travel adventure. We feel lucky to have landed in Melbourne with all of our luggage. A small delay of one hour is nothing to complain about. Given the situation in airports throughout Australia this week, we know we are one of the lucky ones.

Tonight, we have fully bellies (a couple of wines in for Mr and Mrs Travel Bee) and are contently settling down for the night at the airport Park Royal in Melbourne. Tomorrow we pick up the hire care and head for the mountains.

So excited travel is back!

TTB

One boy, a haircut and a wedding: Busselton WA

Never in my wildest dreams had I imagined hosting a wedding in our backyard! But yesterday, Miss Colombia and Mr Italy got hitched at The Hive!

Needless to say, our adventure of hosting travellers continues to surprise and grow our family. New and unique experiences are becoming the norm but I feel certain……. this week will be etched in our memories forever.

It all began a few weeks ago when Miss Columbia and Mr Italy announced they were going to get married. We were very excited for them and agreed the ceremony could take place in our garden followed by a lunch for fifteen. It was to be low key, with only a few close friends.

Area for official proceedings

At first we didn’t tell the children, although I think by this stage they are becoming accustomed to unusual happenings in our backyard. When we told them last week, there were a few wide eyes and ‘are you serious?’ comments but they were game and ready to get involved.

What followed, was a day that can only be described as magical. The low key event suddenly transformed into a day that involved contributions from everyone invited. Each little detail as surprising and endearing as the last. With little discussion between parties, we were astounded at how everyone found their role and the whole day came together.

The afternoon before, we arrived home with our secret bag of decorations to find the best man cutting the groom’s hair! We were surprised and entertained by such a sight beside our shed. But the surprises didn’t stop there.

The hairdresser of wedding eve became chef on wedding day with a stream of pizzas flowing from our oven followed by Crostata for dessert. Another friend suddenly transformed into a Columbian wedding singer with Spanish music flowing from our garden.

Pizza and Crostata for lunch
The wedding singer

Miss 12 took on the role of ring bearer and Master 15 cinematographer, recording the whole event for the Colombian and Italian families. Mr and Mrs Travel Bee you ask?? Yes, you guessed it….. we were the stand in parents rushing around decorating, stressing over small details and popping the champagne.

Champagne ready

It truely was a day to cherish. There were secret tears and not so secret tears, smiles to end all smiles and a general relaxed feel of people who embrace the ride of life.

And when the day came to an end, some retreated home, some to their camper, one to our couch and us to our beds. I for one could not sleep. I don’t know whether it was the excitement of the day or the expresso martini I had mid afternoon but I was buzzing!

Today, things have settled down and ‘normal’ backpacker activities have resumed including the return of one boy!!

1BOY (the number plate!)

One boy is part of a convoy of campers that have stayed at our house over the last few months. Vans that have been converted in the most ingenious ways to provide a home to the backpackers of Australia. A bed, sink, compartments, solar panel and a water tank. All the essentials comprising a home away from home.

But, I have a soft spot for one boy! I have loved watching the Italian boys come together to help their fellow traveller Master 19 fit out his van with all the key items his more seasoned compatriots have advised.

At the tender age of 19 one boy’s owner is a brave kid who is lucky to have found such generous and experienced country men right here in Busselton. There is no doubt he was the shyest wedding guest but when we found out his age we were so impressed with his quiet and courteous nature.

I can’t help but wonder if in only four short years Master 15 might find himself on the other side of the world experiencing one such day!! A frightening yet humbling thought.

There is one thing for sure, our backyard is never dull. It looks like we will only have the pleasure of the now Mrs Columbia and Mr Italy for the rest of this week. Only time will tell what happens next!

TTB

Colombia…… in Busselton

Last weekend, we went to Colombia.…. kind of….

It has been 8 months since I have written a blog. It has been 8 months since I have had anything to say about travel! It has been 2.2 years since we left Western Australia. We have however, recently discovered a new way to bring travel to us.

There are a surprising number of people traveling in Australia that have been here since before the pandemic. These people are bolstering our workforce, holding many a town together but with housing shortages all through regional Australia, they (along with many locals) have found it difficult to find places to live. We have the space, so we decided to welcome some travellers into our home.

What an amazing experience this has been and continues to be.

The Travel Bees and Miss Spain

First up we hosted Miss Spain. This super smiley girl breezed into our lives. We met her once over coffee and wanted to keep her! She stayed for four months working three jobs and checking out the area when she had a spare minute. We enjoyed meals together (Spanish and Australian), met her friends, introduced her to water skiing and showed her some of the sights of Busselton. Inevitably all good things must come to an end and she headed home to Spain, but not before introducing us to our next guests.

Miss Spain enjoying Geographe Bay

Miss Colombia and Mr Italy have been with us nearly a month. There has been more water skiing lessons and shared dinners as we welcome them into our family and home.

As you can imagine, these people are a long way from home and over the last few months we have noticed how they pine for their home traditions and culture. Australia offers them so much but there is always a calling towards one’s home. Responding to a Facebook call out, Miss Columbia has been fortunate enough to met some of ‘her people’ living right here in Busselton.

Last weekend we were invited to a Colombian gathering…. in our own backyard! There was cocktails, beer, food, and Latino music. It was the most unexpected and enriching experience. We all loved listening to their excited Spanish chatter as they got to know one another. Master 14 and Miss 12 floated in and out, observing and enjoying their food.

But, the most memorable moment came when the four Colombians stood up excitedly and began salsa dancing across our deck. We couldn’t believe our eyes, Miss 12 was spellbound! It felt like we were suddenly transported out of our backyard and into the streets of South America and wow, could these people dance!

The way their hips moved, the confidence with which they moved in front of strangers and the sense of pure freedom was exhilarating. It was like they had their own language (to think they had only met a few hours prior!). It was just beautiful to watch.

Moments later, Miss 12 was up having her first salsa lesson, as they explained to us their traditions of learning to dance at family gatherings from a very young age. In minutes, South America leapt up on Miss 12’s list of travel destinations.

As the world begins to return to normal and travel is slowly coming back onto our agenda, we have realised there can be so many ways to experience the world and it’s different cultures. For us, hosting is one of them. From exchange students to backpackers to more experienced and mature travellers, we seem to be able to find common ground and understanding….. it’s that hunger to experience something new.

We have just booked our first flight in a long while. Whilst I don’t think anything is certain, I do feel there is a renewed sense of confidence as we dare to dream of a return to travel.

Covid may have given us many obstacles but it has also taught us to look outside the box. If our next trip doesn’t eventuate ……. well who knows what we might experience in our own backyard.

TTB