The Ocean Pools of Sydney – Part 1: Tamarama to Coogee

The Travel Bees are currently on a short break that has been long in the making. My Yallingup lagoon swimming buddy and I decided some time ago, a trip to Sydney to swim in the ocean pools would be an epic way to cement our swimming camaraderie. When Jetstar announced flights from Busselton to Sydney we were amongst the first to book. We’ve even dragged the husbands along as either fellow swimmers, photographers, towel holders or drinking buddies. It’s their choice.

It sounds like lots of fun right? But there is one thing we didn’t factor in……. weather. With gale force winds and lots of rain forecast for most of the weekend, we are going to have to be very brave or….. squeeze in as many pools as possible while the weather holds.

Today we managed to swim in 6 pools by 2:30pm, all accessed by walking the coastal path. As I write this, we are suitably exhausted (around 2.5km swum, 7km walked and countless flights of stairs climbed) and listening to the rain on the roof, safe in our Tamarama AirBnb.

What we discovered was more than we had imagined. There are pools for serious laps, pools to see fish, pools for breast stroking and pools to escape men!! Some completely man made, some partially, all with steps or ladders for easy entry. There were places for towels and sun baking, many with showers, some free and some you pay.

It was quite a start to our visit, here’s my review:

1. Bronte Baths

Set on the southern end of Bronte beach, this is a concrete infinity pool perched on the side of the cliff. One of the original ocean pools in Sydney, it is home to the oldest winter swimming club, the ‘Bronte Splashers’ (love the name).

With a 30m lap area, we used this for a 600m warm up swim. Unsure of the rules, we asked a fellow swimmer and were informed, ‘find a lane and hold your ground, don’t let the fx@!ers push you out’. An interesting and memorable introduction.

2. Clovelly

Our second stop was not technically an ocean or rock pool, this is more like a bay that has been manipulated to provide a safe and interesting swim area. It is naturally protected by reef but has added concrete walls with steps and handrails.

This was a massive surprise. There were so many fish it was incredible. We tried to do laps but were continually distracted by friendly fish. At one point my friend and I had a school of garfish swimming along between us, the next we were literally in the middle of a school of inquisitive bream. But, the highlight was the Blue Groper. We had read about this guy but weren’t expecting to have a close encounter, but as luck would have it, we did. He was beautiful and followed by his entourage of some 10 or so little cleaner fish. Very impressed.

3. Giles Baths

This rock pool was as close as it comes to ‘el natural’ and the only pool that drew my swim mate’s husband. It was warm, it was clear and we had it all to ourselves. Loved it. Highlight: purple corals.

4. Ross Jones Rock pool

We hit Coogee and found there were three not two pools as we understood. Ross Jones was therefore a surprise not on the agenda. Not terribly big and with only two other swimmers (both doing survival backstroke), we decided this was one best for head out of the water breaststroking. This way we could not only blend in but enjoy the view.

5. McIver’s Ladies Baths

Leaving the husbands at the gate and with the weather closing in, we headed down the steps. $2.50 and we were into the most private of pools. Hidden by the cliff and quiet, this pool provided an opportunity for another decent few laps (we think about 30m long) before enjoying the view across Coogee. It also had the softest of steps with a mossy green carpet aiding your entry. A few small fish to keep things interesting.

6. Wylie’s Baths

Our last stop on day one was arguably the best. By now we were pretty cold and Wylie’s bath ($6 entry) offered a 46m long pool with concrete edges perfect for the laps we needed to stay warm. But don’t be fooled by the picture, it looks like a lot of concrete. However, underwater the floor and walls are natural rock with weeds, corals and crevices perfect for hiding sea-life. Along the eastern edge we had a fun and eventful swim with plenty of fish and waves crashing over our heads.

But perhaps the most memorable part of the swim was the changing room. The baths were originally built in 1907 and the change rooms although upgraded, still maintain a certain old world charm. This includes a 20c slot machine for hot water!

Initially we were gutted as neither of us had any change but it led to an encounter we will always remember. We met a version of ourselves in 25 years. Two local Coogee women in their 70s came to our aid with a 20c piece and we took turns in the shower while chatting to them about places to swim, how to pronounce place names ‘properly’ and flights to Busselton. All while one was completely naked!

What a fantastic day!

In summary;

Best for laps: Wylie’s Baths

Best for fish spotting: Clovelly

Best for warmth: Giles Baths

Best for privacy and relaxation (ladies): McIver’s

But in essence, we loved them all and the absolute best part…… no annoying sand!

TTB